Best Budget Utility Knife - Milwaukee Fastback

 

 

Every so often a tool comes along that is different. Some thing that other tools should be.

Lately I have been pretty darn lucky with finding pieces of EDC kit that tick multiple boxes. All while finding it hard to switch out from my normal every day carry rotation.

Enter the Milwaukee Fastback 6 in 1 Utility Knife. 

When I initially saw one of these things it was randomly in a big box store and I passed it up. Why? Well because it was a utility knife. I've carried pocket knives my whole life. And to be honest I really didn't think I had a use for a utility blade when I had a 3-4 inch folder usually on me.

And then something happened.

There were rumors floating around that these were becoming harder to get. And in some cases went way up in price for online vendors. Watching what the market was doing I figured I'd snag one. And I am glad that I did.

Is this a good tool all around? Is it the tool for you? If you are like me and skeptical lets do a full review and you make the determination. Because it was a game changer for me. 

A great EDC tool should have several primary features. These features should fit what you personally need and what your preferences are. Lets talk about what features you should consider.

Size and portability

The fastback I will say right out the gate isn't a small tool. I found that the pocket clip and width were a bit cumbersome. For one, the pocket I carry my phone in is the same one I carry my knife in. This utility knife is really thick. Making it a pain in the ass to get my phone out a lot of the time. In a way I wish it was slightly thinner to make it more of a pocket friendly piece of kit, but otherwise for what it has with it for the other tools its still worth carrying with the girth.

Blade material and sharpness

Having a sharp blade is super important. Not just preference but for safety. Having a disposable blade makes this simple. You use the blade you have in it until it goes dull, you switch it around to the other side and boom you got another sharp blade right there. If you carry an extra blade you have 4 very sharp blades. You can buy very nice blades for the utility type replacement blades and get a lot of good use out of them. Well worth it. Try other brands or materials out.

Locking mechanism

I found the lock up on the main blade good. It had a press button type release and can be pressed and flicked for easy open and close. The lock up on the driver tool is way better than I expected with a liner lock type thing to get it to stay in place when you have it fully extended.

Handle design and ergos

The handle is plastic which is sucky. I wish it would have been made of metal like some of the older models. If it was even aluminum it would have been a step up I think. The texture is slick but has enough serrations and textures to make up for it.
It fits well in the hand during use.

Additional functions

• Press and Flip Opening
• Quick Change: Tool Free Blade Change
• 6in1 Multi-functionality
• Metal Body
• Folding 1/4" Bit Holder
• Reversible Phillips #2 and Slotted 1/4" Bit
• Bottle Opener
• Wire Stripper
• Durable Wire Belt Clip Reduces Pocket Tearing
• Blade Holder Designed for Scoring
• Metal Extension to Prevent Accidental Blade Removal
• Lanyard Hole

It has easy deployment, and safety features to for the assisted opening and closing. The internals are metal for the actual framing, but the grips indeed are plastic.

So the nitty gritty. What are the pros and cons.

Pros

Versatile. It has a bunch of other functions many may find very usable to have in an EDC tool. The wire stripper or gut hook, blade storage for extra blade, and folding one handed opening closing make it a great pick.

Durable. Milwaukee is known for making great rough use tools. Its got a decent construction for what its intended use is and can handle most rigorous tasks.

Blade quality. The standard cheap utility blades may work but you can spring another couple of bucks to get some very Gucci branded blades that may take it to the next level. It's nice to have that option for easy replacement.

Locking screwdriver and it can be used as a pry bar with flathead bit.

You can take the blade out and still carry the tool in places you normally could not take a knife.

Cons

Bulky. Its thick. Its not as convenient as other utility knives.

Limited blade storage. It can hold one extra blade only but that's being nit picky.

Price. Its more expensive than other tools that are similar but you are buying the brand name Milwaukee. Some will say the functions and quality though are worth the price.

Plastic scales not metal.

Non reversible pocket clip.

It may be discontinued by the time you read this.

Overall it is essential to consider the factors mentioned here. I have found the tool for the work and needs I have to be a perfect fit. Even though I was skeptical about carrying it. Even with the nit picky type cons I have found it has been well worth all of the minor gripes.

I thought having a shorter blade with less cutting surface would be not suited for my work and use but after some time I realized id rather have very sharp blades that are cheap and disposable at hand instead of having to sharpen my EDC knife regularly. Because lets face it. Most of us cut a lot of tape and boxes and that's what utility knives are great for.

I am not endorsed or sponsored by any company. This is a review on an item I paid for and purchased with my own money.

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The Best Budget EDC Flashlight

I have heard before numerous times that sometimes the most important piece of gear you own is the one that you carry. For the most part that is true. What is the point of buying the gear? What use is the lights that you purchase and then keep in your closet or in a bin full of other gear you do not use?

What I have learned in the last couple of years is function and form are probably the most important factors in EDC gear. If it is something that you can easily carry, then it is ultimately going to prove useful.

Flashlights are no different.

With lights, we have gotten to a point where the efficiency is incredibly high. In the years past there was/is a flooded market of overpriced EDC oriented lights. I have never gotten into that game.

Reason for this is that I am notoriously rough on my gear and I also tend to lose smaller items. I would kick myself in the ass if I somehow lost a grossly overpriced EDC light. It simply isn't worth it to me. Because in essence a $2 light can arguably do the exact same thing as a very expensive one. Maybe not as good, but it can definitely do the bare basics.

Nitecore is a name that a lot of people know as far as lights go. They have a lot of smaller and compact EDC models that are rather affordable. The TIKI for example is about $20. Not too bad in the world of EDC lights. To me its still overpriced.

However, somehow or another I stumbled on a TIKI copy online. So I bought it. At the time it was $7 shipped. At the worst I would have a junk rechargeable Nitecore copy that would go in a bag or in my car for whatever general use. Little did I know this would turn out to be one of the most important pieces of gear I probably would buy in a very long time.

At the time of writing this I have bought, used, gifted probably a dozen or more of these lights to friends and coworkers. I keep them in all my bags and they are staged all over the house because they are so useful.

Disclaimer: I am not sponsored by any company and I also have not owned a Nitecore TIKI. It is pretty clear these lights are a direct copy of them though so it should be noted. They actually have MORE features than its Nitecore counterpart.

The model I purchased is called the M300. For the specifications I will share some of the minor details but like a lot of these items I tend to not believe some of the information they provide for them. I can tell you my experiences though with them.

Brightness: 400LM
Color temperature: 6500K
Product material: PC+304 stainless steel
Battery model: polymer lithium battery
Battery capacity: 500mah
Charging port specification: USB-C
Charging time: 35 minutes

Battery life ~2H or 130 minutes up to 32H
Brightness 400LM - 290LM - 87LM - 25LM - 2LM

Side lights
white light, white light flashing, purple light, red light, red light flashing, red and blue flashing police light.

IPX6 rated waterproofing.

The lights I purchased were all glow in the dark clearish shelled plastic cases. They are about the size of a Chapstick and have a clip that can be used to attach to a hat bill. Sort of to use as a headlamp. It also features a magnet to temporarily attach it to metal items to use hands free. Both of these features have come in handy for me numerous times when I needed both of my hands free.

The magnet I sometimes forget about then I remember and it works awesome for whatever task I am needing it for.

One thing I noticed was that this clone light actually has more optional features than the Nitecore ones do. The side lights have a lot more colors and options than the TIKI counterparts have. Another reason to just get the cheaper clone if you think you would ever need a UV light, or flashing police lights to signal. 

I have also found that the translucent glow in the dark feature of the body has come in handy when I least expected it. When camping I would need to use the light and then I would be getting in my tent and the glowing was just enough to illuminate what I needed to see.

In my recent years with buying and testing gear and lights I have been keen on mainly two features. The first is that I want it rechargeable with Type C. The other is having a white and red light option. Since this has both of those main key features I have tested multiple of these lights over a year rigorously. They go into every bag and every loadout I have put together.

Like I stated when I started this entry, the most important EDC items you have are the ones you carry. What is the point of having gear if it isn't able to be carried? Having a small multi purpose light is incredibly useful. The fact its rechargeable is even better. So don't take my word for it. Get a handful of these lights and test them out. You will not be disappointed. Its the perfect size, and it is bright enough for the majority of tasks you could ever ask of it. If you need a brighter and bigger light then you probably were not prepared for the task at hand in the first place.

Oh, and I cant really post links but many site like Amazon or other Chinese eCommerce sites will have similar ones like this available for pretty cheap. They are easy to find with a couple of minutes of searching.

I am not sponsored or endorsed by any company mentioned in this post.

Building an Adventure Bag

 

 

What is an adventure bag?

An adventure bag is a small grab and go pack or option that is meant for impromptu events. It can be put together and be at the ready for when spontaneous things come along.


Where do we begin?

An adventure bag ideally is on the smaller side. You realistically do not need anything special or expensive. You could make a great adventure bag with a 20L or smaller backpack or sling bag. Chances are, you already have a bag or backpack that fits this perfectly.

What do you need in an adventure bag?

 

The items to consider are the following:

• Water
• Food
• Lighting
• Communication
• Clothing
• Protection and First Aid
• Miscellaneous

This is the ultra simplistic and basic list of items you may generally want for a grab and go adventure pack. 

Most important is having water and some snacks or food. Even having an empty Nalgene bottle on hand is perfect for when its time to head out. Having some trail mix or some snacks that are easy shelf stable items. Remember were not talking about having a full blown survival kit. Its just to have on hand to grab and go and have some rudimentary items to make things comfortable.

Next is lighting. Having a rechargeable flashlight or headlamp might come in handy as well.

Communication for most would mean just having a cellphone on hand. Or if you have a radio, pack and extra one with you just in case.

 

Proper clothing like a rain jacket, a hat, or a pair of gloves may also be a great thing to have depending on where you are going and what the climate is. Of course, this will change with your area and the seasons. So pack accordingly.

First aid and general protection items can vary. However a smaller prepacked micro first aid kit is perfect for these types of bags. They cost very little and usually have the items needed for scrapes and boo boos. Some other considerations could be medications or pain relievers, allergy meds, bug spray, sunscreen, lip balm, and maybe a whistle for signalling.

Last but not least is the miscellaneous items. Always keep extra plastic bags on hand for taking out trash. Leave no trace means leave no trash behind. Perhaps a multitool would be useful to keep in your bag. Sunglasses, or an extra pair of socks to keep your feet comfortable and dry. Electrolyte tablets or sport drink packets could be a life saver too. A good item to consider also is an extra battery pack and a charging cable for your mobile phone. 

Remember to pack items in your adventure bag that fits what you need. Tailor and customize your gear for what it is that you would likely need in a given random off the cuff outing. Planning for larger more elaborate activities is one thing. But it sure is nice to have a few essentials on hand and ready to grab when the opportunity for exploration awaits.

6 Essentials for Storm and Weather Preparedness

When it comes to storm season its best to be prepared. It can be a daunting task if you don't know where to begin. Being armed with the right information can make life a lot easier for you and your family when the need arises. In a typical fashion, I will cut right to the chase about what items you should consider.

Tailor your purchases to what your needs are. These are just generalized suggestions.

Here is a list of 6 items I believe are a good start:


Lighting

When it comes to storm season and bad weather its pretty typical for the power to go off. To combat this flashlights can really save the day. Whether you have a smaller battery powered light or if you have rechargeable options it will really help morale being able to see when the neighborhood goes dark.

In my years experience I have learned to embrace all that is USB powered devices. This is primarily because it helps standardize and simplify when it comes to recharging gear. Sure your old mag light that is filled with C or D cell batteries will work all the same when its needed, but needing to stock and store and then find batteries can be a hassle when you need it most. My biggest protip is to get rechargeable items. Like headlamps and lanterns to keep around the house. These are perfect for when there are emergencies and will be a godsend when you need it. These LED items are usually very cost effective and long lasting. Get some smaller lights for your family members and a couple headlamps so in the case you need them you can work with your hands free. Standardizing with USB type items will help so much for later.
 

Power bank

By now most people have probably seen the ads online or a coworker with one to keep their phone charged. Battery power banks are an essential piece of kit to keep all of your devices up and running when power from the wall is not an option.

Battery banks can come in different sizes, features, and price points.  The general idea is to get a bank that is bigger than you think you may need. This is especially true if you have kids.

Piggy backing on to the idea to standardize with USB items the battery bank will be the central hub to charging all or most of your items you will need for storm weather. These banks can keep your phone charged, lights going, small USB fans running, and keep those tablets charged up to make the time pass much easier.  If you have multiple items that may require a lot of juice then you will definitely want to get a larger battery bank and keep it charged and on hand. Check the bank every few months to make sure that it is full so when you need it, it will be almost full for your emergency needs.

Food and water

Most people will have things on hand but having a specific stock available for storms and emergency use is a good idea. Even if it is just stocking a couple jugs of water and a box of MREs (meals ready to eat) it will prove helpful during a power outage and emergency. General rule of thumb is to keep 1 gallon of water on hand per person in your home per 24 hour period. Do not forget pets!

Specifically, long term storage items that can be eaten and drank without the use of power is what I am talking about. MREs or combat rations are seen and used with our military personnel. These will have a lot of different things in each pack and have more than enough to keep a belly full. One of the key things is that these MRE's last a long time in temperature controlled environments and can be eaten completely without any heating. And they stay good to eat for 5+ years stored properly. They will typically include a main entree, some side items like crackers and peanut butter and jelly, pop tarts, drink options like electrolyte mixes, shakes, and coffee. There will also sometimes be desserts and sweets included too. In short, MREs for the convenience factor are hard to beat. You buy them, keep them on hand, and use when you need them.

There are a variety of MREs available. They usually come in cases of 12 and will have the menu numbers listed so you can pick what type of food you would like to have on hand. Get some MRE's and remember to rotate long term storage water out regularly and you will be good to go.

First aid and tools

Keeping basic boo boo and blow out gear is essential. In other entries I explain much more in depth this subject. For the sake of this simplified list if you are just starting out, a very basic prebuilt first aid kit will do just fine.

Keep this first aid box up to date, and add items specific to suit your needs as you go.

Tool wise having essential items on hand like a power drill, hand tools like a small saw or hatchet/axe, multitool, and a set of rain gear may come in handy as well. Having waterproof boots has been a huge help for me personally and can help if you live in areas prone to flooding or swampy conditions. Modify these kits to suit your situation before you actually need them.

Entertainment and comfort

Having a deck of cards, some board games, or an extra tablet with offline games can make a world of difference when you are without power and waiting for the internet to be restored.

Even just having a nice little USB fan can help overall morale if the weather is a bit warm. Or having extra blankets and sleeping bags if its cold. Some of the creature comforts will make the whole experience much more easy to endure. Depending on your family size and age groups involved this list can be different from household to household. But you should think about these things more once you have the other items tackled in my opinion. Prioritizing general safety and basic essential needs to come first!

Communication

Typically everyone has a cellphone, but you should also consider a radio. A small weather radio will work perfect to keep you updated as to what is going on in your area when there is a storm or weather event.

You can simply buy a ready to go weather radio on amazon or at a local big box store. Or you can get a programmable Baofeng radio and have a lot more functions. These smaller cheap radios do require some work to set up but the benefits are incredible compared to blister pack walkie talkies.

If you are looking for a place to start there are hand crank powered weather and safety radios available. If you decide to go down the Baofeng rabbit hole its a huge vast world with a large community to help you along the way. I highly recommend eventually going the programmable radio route as they have so many features like FM radio, weather radio, scanning capabilities, and all the benefits of a walkie talkie. And you can even get a USB compatible charger for these radios to keep them juiced up for a longer duration of time. Regardless of your choice have them charged and ready for when you need them.

Simply put, you cannot always rely on your cell phone and need to have other options on hand.

Having a little planning and forethought put into basic preparedness for storms and bad weather will make a big difference. Having the most important things rounded up, you can concentrate on some more of the comfort items. Practice what it would be like having no power. Especially if you have kids, and then make a list of the things you learned. After you can reevaluate your gear and situation for when you may need it. Practice makes perfect.

Here is your list.

1. Lighting
2. Power bank
3. Food and water
4. First aid and tools
5. Entertainment and comfort
6. Communication

Aside from what I mentioned here, what items do you have that are a must that I missed? Sound off in the comments section below.

Check the link up at the top for my linktree. Bookmark and add all the social media links to stay up to date. Share the blog for people that may need it. And if you would like to support the blog you can send me a coffee. Coffee keeps this blog running.

Level 3 Repairs - Surplus DIY

 

If you have not checked out the other entries in this series check these out first:

So You Want to Fix Your Surplus Gear? - here.

Level 1 Repairs - Surplus DIY - here.

Level 2 Repairs - Surplus DIY - here.


And if you have made it to this entry then you must have some really beaten to shit gear. That or you are thinking about diving into fixing what is considered non-repairable grade 3 surplus. More than likely because its dirt cheap.

Level 3 repairs will include large holes, missing parts, closures like zippers are non operational, or they were turned down for repair by CIF. 

Because the CIF has to determine if the item is worth the time and energy to fix for the vast majority of grade 3 gear is considered cannibalize grade only. Meaning, you utilize the parts you can to fix other gear that is in better shape.

Grading systems by the equipment issuing departments is open and varies greatly. The repair level system I have explained here is very much so piece by piece basis. It isn't always directly related to the graded condition it is sold as. It is how I personally rank repairs due to difficulty. And how I gauge if its worth it for me to spend the time and energy to complete it. 

For your average person to be frank, repairing grade 3 gear is only good if you are wanting to learn, cannibalize, or to just take on a new challenge. And most people who have seen grade 3 examples would say it isn't worth the time. It is a rewarding skill to pick up and learn however.

Something I sort of neglected to mention was, why surplus?

Well its the same reasons why anyone would bother spending the time to fix grade 3 gear.

Its cost effective.
It has a huge sustainability impact.
Preservation of history.
Maintaining authenticity and quality.
Personalization through customization. 

And the damaged surplus is a great way to do all of these things. It pushes people to be resourceful, socially and and ecologically responsible, and to honor military and historical significance of equipment of the era.

Okay. But what about the really bad repairs? Get on with it.

Large tears can be fixed. Its dependent on location but chances are if its a grade 3 then its going to be drastically lower in its durability, possibly even with a repair. The worn out, UV beaten fabrics will also have poor color and poor durability overall.

If a piece is missing important parts then if the equipment is harder to find you may have an expensive project that you have to find multiple items to build one single functional one. 

Zippers, closures, snaps, and integral parts of how pouches and bags work are a common problem to fix. These can be somewhat difficult to learn how to do in the beginning but you can do it. It takes a little time and practice. If all else fails and you just want to get the thing working you can always take it to a place that does alterations and you can try to see about the price to have someone fix the item for you if its outside of your skill base.

If an item has a combination of these problems they will consider the part not repairable. A culmination of factors can go into the decision but overall may end up being a item to use for parts if it is too much to repair for the given task you would like it to perform optimally and sufficiently.

On another note there is a split about permanently modifying surplus gear beyond returning to the original condition. As surplus is sold and used and militaries change their equipment the gear becomes scarce, more expensive and harder to get. Lots of people will modify gear to their liking. And that's cool. Some people like to just return the item to its original glory, and that is cool too. But its smart to take gear that would more than likely never be able to be used again and working on it to make it yours. 

These items have character and giving them a second life is by far the coolest thing you can do for it. Regardless of how you choose to do it.

The hope is that if you somehow stumbled on this blog that the entries in this series help give an idea what it may take to fix some pouches, bags or some battle tested gear. If you are worried about cost or screwing something up get some damaged gear for pennies on the dollar and practice. There are so many great YouTube channels to help with sewing. And it doesn't take much to get going and learning an awesome skill that can help you later.

Remember Rambo? Just sayin'.

Modern Belt Harness Prototype

 

 

For my friends running modern battle belts you probably have done the exact same thing I have. You got a new belt, you loaded it up, wore it for 5 minutes and you said to yourself, "this isn't what I expected".
 

What I've experienced is something like this. I got my belt on at the range and then realized the weight was too much for it and my pants were starting to slowly and annoyingly sag. Even with the modern belts being two piece design. Where the inner belt is velcro and the outer belt is the belt your gear attaches to. It still somehow does not work optimally.

I have reduced it down to being afflicted with "Hank Hill butt" and unfortunately unless I get cash for a sketchy Brazilian butt lift I am stuck trying to find a better solution.

Enter the Eagle Industries low profile battle belt suspenders.

This project was able to be done with the help of One Thief Surplus. On a facebook post they had posted something about harnesses so I commented if they could help me with a sagging modern battle belt. Quickly to my surprise they private messaged me and he came up with this design I am testing out.

Just for clarification. I paid for my harness but the owner was cool enough to send me the attachments free of charge to test out and to give my honest opinions on. And for that I am super grateful.  

What do I need to try this out?

You need your belt you would like to attach this to. Mine is a Ronin Senshi belt for this example. And then all you need is an Eagle Industries H harness, and 4 pigtail adapters.

The suspenders on their own are made to mate with other gear but it can be used for a bunch of different things if you have an imagination and willing to try something new out. The pigtail adapters are actually from bag repair accessory kits. Each normally have 2 but for this project you would need to procure 4 total. This is because the harness on its own only has male clips and you need 4 female clips to connect them up.

Setting it up was fairly straight forward. My belt had to be totally disassembled to accommodate and place where the pigtail adapters would fit. After doing a mock up test fit it was apparent that it was going to be a big change up.

Immediately the two piece belt was very easy to take on and off. Where as I have fumbled around in the past trying to get it on and off and lined up properly with the inner velcro belt. With the harness set it lands right where it needs to and all you have to do is clip the main buckle and go. 



Some speed tape later and shifting my gear around a bit, I had to also make some room on my belt. Because of where the pigtails had to go the real estate had to be open for them. As in you cannot run the pigtails through the molle on your belt. They simply run over your outer belt. I had to omit an AR mag pouch and also had to drop the fixed blade knife off from the original pre-harness set up. Which was fine because I didn't plan on getting in a knife fight anyways. This freed up the space I needed to run this. Take that into consideration as your belt may need some shifting and changing.

Currently now I keep 2 pistol mags, dump pouch, IFAK and my pistol. No frills.

The one thing I noticed was the loops for the pigtails were just big enough to weave the outer belt through it no issue, but too large to keep the 4 points from moving around the slightest bit. This caused some fitment and comfort issues during set up.  The solution I have was to speed tape the adapter to be a bit tighter. This way I did not have to permanently modify them to get them to work for the time being.

In the little time I was able to wear it the harness and belt was pretty comfortable and easy to adjust on the go. I felt more confident in the new set up to hold the weight of the gear I decided to don. 

What are the pros and cons of running this set up?

Pros
Low profile. Harness can be worn under plate carriers, chest rigs or other gear.
Better support and fitment.
Flame retardant.
Quick on/off after set up.
Battle tested and trustworthy manufacturing.
On the cheaper side for the harness.

Cons
Set up a bit of an initial hassle.
May require more time to fit and set up over other battle belts.
Optimal fitment may require permanent modification to pigtail adapters.
Not cost effective to purchase multiple bag repair kits with adapters.
Pigtail loops are a bit odd. Infinity loop type deals. Not simple loops.

But that is why this is a prototype. I have a handful of ways I think that modifications could make this type of set up a long term rig to run. The fact it can be ran low profile is super nice for those of us who may want to train in different environments with adverse conditions. I can see under duress this harness rig set should work awesome. Before I would not feel comfortable running around with the Ronin belt on its own. Now I feel like it would work no problem. But It will require longer term testing to determine if this is the case.

While we haven't seen many rigs like this yet for modern 2 piece belt sets, maybe we will in the future. Its unconventional right now but with how gear has to be worn, for my personal taste this makes sense. Only time will tell if this will start to be a thing. As far as I know I have yet to see a similar set up like this available.

Sometimes, utilizing parts and pieces you already have to make a battle system work is part of the game. This is especially true for military surplus gear. Like our troops will do, sometimes its about making something from little or nothing. Being inventive and creative has huge benefits in the world of gear. Especially when comfort is involved.

Over time I will report back my findings and maybe show some of the modifications I make to the set up if there is an interest in such a thing.

Big thanks again to One Thief Surplus for the idea and hooking it up with the pigtail adapters and the idea for this prototype. Check out their website and add them on facebook and youtube if you would like to snag the parts to make this, watch some videos, or to just get some surplus gear in your grubby hands.

Go train.

One Thief Website
On Facebook
Check out their YouTube

Level 2 Repairs - Surplus DIY

 "Surplus collecting is just gambling for people who like camo and history."

If you are here to learn about fixing your surplus gear and have not read the previous 2 entries and installments in the series, you should. Primarily because the way this is laid out is according to an arbitrary level system I use and broke down for clarity and ease of understanding.

Sure, you can jump right in here and check out what I have to say but it may not make much sense because the levels of repair are not directly related to surplus grading. Well, it is but it isn't.

If you do want to check out the first entry you can click here. And if you would like to see what it takes to make level 1 repairs and see the previous post you can click here.

With that out of the way lets dive right into it. What is a level 2 repair? A level 2 repair is going to be:

Moderate tears. Zipper issues. Seam problems. Very Worn or damaged equipment.

If you are dealing with a reputable surplus company chances are that you will not encounter these sort of defects and damage on anything unless its Grade 3 condition gear. I say hopefully because lots of large retailers simply do not have the manpower or time to go over large quantities of gear. Sometimes pouches, bags and surplus items may slip through the cracks and written off as grade 2 normal surplus with these sort of issues. It happens.

The vast majority of all surplus is going to be grade 2. Its used gear but totally functional, complete, and sound.

Be careful buying online. In the ads and listings it should have the specific retailers condition guide clearly listed or linked. And the listings should have the info about the lot you decided to purchase from. If your item is badly damaged and it was listed as general used surplus, its not out of line to contact the seller.  Be prepared to send pictures of the evidence that the item is not as described or listed. 

In the level 1 repair post I went over the general order of operations I go through to fix minor superficial repairs. This is typically through patching, sewing, and gluing. In that order.

For new people getting into the repair game, level 2 fixes are where it could get hairy and a lot of learning can be done. So don't trip just yet. A lot of these problems are able to be fixed with some careful planning.

Sometimes the difference between a level 2 or a level 3 repair could be simply based on the location of the damage.  

Level 2 repairs should be challenging but not out of reach to get back to snuff. Tears larger than a quarter will be common for this level. Issues related to zippers will plague your nightmares. Seams may be starting to come apart and cause problems. And finally the materials of said gear may be badly worn and faded.

The method I use a lot of the time are patching and sewing together. You can patch the backs of the gear and then hand ladder stitch the materials together for basic holes and tears. You will quickly see why ripstop is awesome if you take the repair path. It makes life a lot easier for you during the learning phase of this skill.

"Protip: a free way to get surplus gear is to scavenge the wastelands riddled with war. Be sure to avoid the throngs of drugged up blood thirsty marauders."

Zipper issues are awful. There is no way around it. These can sometimes be a level 3 repair. These wont be discussed here.

Issues with seams can be problematic also as they are usually not easily hand sewn to fix. If you have a heavy duty machine you might be able to fix the seam issues you will see and run into. There is also the possibility that because the heavy denier materials you wont be able to do this by hand. Smaller economy sewing machines may have problems attempting to get through the materials also. Leaving you with the option to hand sew it and use pliers to pull the needle through safely.

Use common sense about these level 2 repairs as they will require more thought and planning than the other superficial repairs.

Very worn or damaged gear presents its own problems. Sun bleached and sand beaten gear will show that whatever piece you got had a rough life. I own many Tan and coyote surplus items that were so sun beaten that they actually changed the color to white. Yes. That is UV damage.

UV damaged gear will have a host of durability problems. Take this into careful consideration for what job and task you have for the item.

Anything that is very sun damaged will NOT provide the same length of service for you as one that was stored in a crate somewhere. If you have a lower stress job for those items its much more likely to last a long time for you. Don't splurge on a huge inventory of "salty M4 mag pouches" and expect them to run in tip top shape for a daily beater piece of kit. Its just not realistic.

A lot of level 2 repair items will be able to provide a budget friendly way to build a kit or rig and have a great time running it. In doing so, it takes some realistic expectations of what each piece of gear is expected to do.

Budget friendly used and damaged gear is a great way in general just to learn the ropes of repair. After you learn, you have usable gear and have some skill acquired. Its a win, win. Pretty rewarding to say the least.

If you carefully mend and repair your pieces and pay attention to detail you can have a cost effective and earth friendly gear option. Up cycling surplus gear is what cool people do.

"My collection is never complete. My soul belongs to the unobtainium."